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Woodpecker (Kenton Floors)

Woodpecker is the main brand for the flooring wholesaler and manufacturer Kenton Floors. At Woodpecker ‘Affordable quality’ is no idle claim, our traditional high standards of selection and machining are seen in each floorboard – instituted in the original small factory where the first floors were made – and still applied today across our 13 state of the art manufacturing facilities around the globe.

Every board goes through a rigid quality and grading process to ensure that the highest possible standards are met to guarantee your perfect satisfaction. The boards are then put through finishing processes such as lacquering, oiling or antiquing – many of which are carried out by hand using centuries old traditions – for that timeless elegance that only a natural wood floor can bring to your home. Finally it is stored in our extensive warehousing facility where we hold large stocks ready for immediate dispatch to fulfil your requirements. We trust you will experience as much pleasure from your floor as we have had in bringing it to you.

Each Woodpecker floor carries this outstanding reassurance of our confidence that you will not find a better value product anywhere on the market. Your satisfaction depends on our care and attention to detail, such as the careful selection of the trees before they are felled and the way in which the timber is sawn, stacked and dried. In most cases the sawn timber is air dried for over twelve months prior to a 2 stage kilning and dehumidification process to achieve maximum stability. It is then carefully selected for grain pattern, colour variation and knots, to provide the many varied appearances that are available within the Woodpecker range.The flooring is then machined using the latest technologies – in many cases to engineering tolerances that up to a few years ago would have been thought impossible – so that we can bring virtual perfection to your floor.

We care about the environment and go to great lengths to bring to you products that have been manufactured from materials harvested with this in mind. As a company we are both Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and Programme For The Endorsement of Forests (PEFC) accredited with our natural floors carrying at least a PEFC accreditation. Stringent attention to all products right from the source to your door gives you the assurance that with a Woodpecker floor you are not impacting negatively on the environment.

Solid Wood
The traditional and timeless appeal of a solid wood floor will enhance the appearance of any interior and endure for generations. Each board is precision machined from a single piece of timber and typically finished with a robust tongue and groove joint on all sides.
Real Wood Engineered
Each board is constructed from multiple layers of wood pressed together. The top solid wood layer is available in a wide variety of species, finishes and thicknesses to accommodate all tastes and requirements. It is supported by a central core and backing board to give the floor increased stability.
Laminate simulates the appearance of a real wood floor without some of the practical drawbacks. Its colour and characteristics are determined by a decorative foil that is coated with a transparent melamine layer for durability. The core is made of High Density Fibreboard (HDF) for optimum strength and backed with a stabilising cellulose paper.
While technically a variety of grass, the characteristics of a bamboo floor are comparable to that of a hardwood floor. Bamboo is 100% sustainable with a life cycle of around 5 years. Available in two styles; traditional and strand-woven, with the latter being twice as durable as the traditional method.
Estilo Cork
Innovative in design yet ecologically sustainable. A distinctive floor designed for optimum comfort, warmth and resilience. Prefinished with a high-build UV lacquer for durability and available as either a stick-down tile or a glueless Clic system.

This grade offers a natural look with limited knots. Considerable grain and colour variation provide a characterful look. Up to 10% sapwood permitted in some species but only small knots allowed.
A rustic grade allows for considerable grain and colour variation. Up to 10% sapwood, large knots* (some filled); dark streaks and filled cracks are all acceptable.
Extra Rustic
Very little is graded out in this category. Large knots*, splits, cracks and any amount of sapwood are all to be expected when choosing this distinctive design.
* Knots are divided into 2 main categories. A dead knot occurs when the core has been removed or has fallen out. It is subsequently filled. A live knot still has the core and generally does not contain filler. This grade includes both categories. When knots are filled it is not always possible to closely match the colour of the wood. If large knots with filler are not wanted it is the responsibility of the customer to inform the installer to cut these out at the time of installation.

What are the different coatings, finishes or effects?
UV Oil / UV Hardwax Oil
An oiled finish penetrates the surface of the wood to bring out the natural beauty of the grain. Each board receives 5–7 coats of oil and is UV cured at every stage of the process. Choosing this finish allows for isolated areas of damage, such as scratches, to be easily re-touched without the need for major work.
UV Lacquered
A lacquered floor is typically smooth to touch and more glossy in appearance. Each board receives 5–7 coats of lacquer and is UV cured at every level of the process. The finished result is a hardwearing and durable surface that can be easily maintained.
UV Matt Lacquered
The dull satin sheen of the matt lacquered finish has been designed to replicate the appearance of an oiled floor, without the same periodic maintenance requirements. Instead its smooth hard surface enjoys the same upkeep as a lacquered floor.
An unfinished floor has no surface finish which allows you to create a truly bespoke result in terms of both colour and durability. All products are supplied with pre-filled knots and the boards are pre-sanded for your convenience.
The top of the board is lightly brushed to remove the softer surface fibres and expose the wood grain. The result is a subtly textured finish that delicately highlights the natural grain structure within the timber adding definition to each plank.
Keeping you right in touch with nature, the kerf of the saw marks are proudly exposed on each board producing that delightfully rustic feel that conjures up the inspiring smell of fresh sawdust and the pleasure of witnessing freshly sawn timber.
Full of rustic charm, this distinctive finish is characterised by the unique textures that result from the hand scraping process. Each plank is painstakingly scraped by hand prior to finishing which creates an aged look. The irregular ridges and grooves add depth and warmth yet remain smooth to the touch.
Aged & Distressed
Each plank is hand distressed to produce a textured surface reminiscent of a naturally aged, rustic floor. The boards are then subjected to a series of caustic processes, such as smoking, before the application of oil, filler and stains to enrich their timeworn appeal.
Bevelled Edge
A bevelled edge adds definition to each plank creating a rustic feel that’s more traditional in design. The chamfered edges will vary in size between our different flooring collections, with anything from a discreet micro-bevel right up to a deep v-groove.
Square Edge
The edges of each plank meet squarely when joined together, creating a smooth and seamless transition between the boards. This results in a clean and consistent overall finish that lends itself well to contemporary and formal interiors.

What do I need to prepare before installation?
Pre-delivery conditions
Before any flooring is delivered to site, all wet trades such as concreting, plastering and decorating should be complete and the building must be thoroughly dried out. Windows and doors must be fitted and watertight.
N.B: As a rough guide, the drying time for a sand and cement based screed is 1 day per mm for the first 50mm and 2.5 days per mm thereafter. Therefore, a 50mm screed will take approximately 2 months to dry out while a 100mm screed could take about 6 months. Plaster may take 6 weeks or more to dry completely.
Subfloor Preparation
Ideally the subfloor should be prepared for installation in accordance with the industry standards outlined in BS-8201-2011. It must be in good structural condition and free from damp rot, fungal or insect infestation and contaminating residues. Surface irregularities should not exceed 3mm over a 2m area and the floor must be in a clean and vacuumed condition. Hot pipes should be well insulated to prevent localised hot spots under the floor that could lead to excessive shrinkage.
Heating Systems
Before any flooring arrives on site, the room temperature and atmospheric Relative Humidity (RH) must be stable. All heating and air conditioning systems must be commissioned and operating for a minimum of 2 weeks before fitting can commence.
Where underfloor heating is being used, we would always recommend that a real wood engineered floor is installed in preference to a solid wood floor due to the increased stability that a multi-layered construction provides. Contractors that install solid wood flooring over underfloor heating, do so at their own risk!
Woodpecker flooring is subject to strict quality control procedures, however, our products are manufactured from natural materials so it is essential that you check every plank carefully before installation. We cannot consider any claims regarding product defects after installation.
Before installation, it is imperative that all flooring is acclimatised in the room it is to be fitted. The sealed unopened boxes should be laid flat, ideally in the centre of the room, or with at least 50cm distance from the walls. Flooring must not be stored outdoors, in an outbuilding or a room displaying ventilation, damp or condensation problems. The site conditions need to match those which will prevail when the floor is in use.
Solid wood flooring requires 5–7 days acclimatisation
Engineered and bamboo flooring require 3–4 days
Laminate and Estilo flooring only require 24 hours
Laying Direction
Wood flooring looks its best when the planks are installed in the same direction as the light and down the length of the room. However, if your new floor is to be laid upon existing parquet, the boards should be arranged at right-angles to the existing floor.
Disclaimer: Installation guidance is advisory and based on established good practice and BS-8201-2011. It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure that correct procedures are followed before, during and after installation. Kenton Floors do not accept any responsibility for any issues relating to installation.
Moisture Testing
While the surface of the subfloor may appear dry, it is possible that excess moisture may still be present within the substrate. As wood and moisture are natural enemies, it is imperative to test the subfloor moisture content before fitting. Using a professional moisture meter such as the Protimeter MMS, the readings must not exceed the following:
70% Relative Humidity (RH) for cement based concrete
11% Wood Moisture Equivalent (WME) for wooden subfloors or joists.
Atmospheric Conditions
It is important that the following conditions are fulfilled before, during and after the installation:
Room temperature of at least 18°C (64°F)
Floor surface temperature of at least 15°C (59°F)
Atmospheric RH of between 40% and 60%
N.B: Wood flooring is not suitable for installation in wet rooms or areas where there is a regular flow of water.

What is the checklist for using an adhesive?
Sticking Down Your Floor
A traditional tongue and groove wooden floor can be fixed directly to a concrete subfloor using the Woodpecker MS Parquet Adhesive. This purpose-made adhesive will hold the timber after a short open time but remains permanently flexible to allow for the expansion and contraction of the timber between seasons.
The adhesive should be applied using a 3–4.8mm notched trowel (depending on the condition of the subfloor) and spread evenly onto the subfloor. It is essential that there is a full bond and that each board is fully adhered to ensure maximum stability.
We always recommend that solid wood flooring is installed by an experienced floor fitter. Wood is a natural product and susceptible to dimensional changes – each situation needs to be professionally assessed before installation commences.
N.B: Never glue the joints when fully sticking your floor down. It places too much pressure on the boards and could lead to cracking.
Preparation Checklist
Are all wet trades complete and thoroughly dried out?
As a rough guide, the drying time for a sand and cement based screed is 1 day per mm for the first 50mm and 2.5 days per mm thereafter.
Is the subfloor clean, dry and free from any contaminating residues?
If it is necessary to level the subfloor before fitting, apply Level-X Primer followed by Woodpecker Level-X (Fibre Reinforced) Self-Levelling Compound. NEVER use latex self-levelling compounds. They do not have the tensile strength to resist the movement of the timber.
Are the subfloor moisture readings within tolerance?
A cement based screed must have an RH (Relative Humidity) reading of 70% or less. If there is any doubt as to the moisture levels in the subfloor always apply the Woodpecker WP60 Liquid Damp Proof Membrane which will seal the moisture below the surface of the floor and prevent the floor from expanding and distorting. The subfloor must be free of dust and any contamination before application. Wooden subfloors must have moisture readings of between 7% and 11% WME (Wood Moisture Equivalent) and the new flooring should be left to acclimatize until it has reached a similar reading so as to prevent undue expansion or contraction. If the initial moisture readings are not within tolerance then an alternative method for fitting should be used.
Is the atmospheric RH reading between 40% and 60%?
If underfloor heating is present, has it been properly tested and turned off 48 hours before fitting?
Has the flooring been acclimatised for the correct period of time?

What is the checklist for floating a floor?
Floating Your Floor
Floating a floor essentially means that the new boards are loose laid over a suitable underlay instead of being screwed, nailed or stuck to the subfloor.
A floating floor can be installed over various subfloors including concrete, anhydrite, existing wood floor, chipboard, ceramic tiles, PVC and linoleum, providing they meet the preparatory guidelines. Soft subfloor coverings such as carpet must be removed.
Underlay should be laid edge-to-edge, in the opposite direction to that of the flooring, and linked using an adhesive tape. If your underlay is dual-purpose and also provides a Damp Proof Membrane (DPM), always use the Woodpecker Vapour Tape to prevent moisture rising between the seams. Do not overlap the underlay unless it has been specifically designed to do so.
Starting in a corner of the room lay the first row of flooring with the tongue (T&G) or top lip (Loc/Clic) of the board facing the wall. Don’t forget the necessary expansion gaps! Ensure that all boards are tightly joined or glued together, using a tapping block or pulling iron with care if necessary. The off-cut from the final board in each row can be used to begin the next row, providing it measures 200mm or more. To maximise the appearance of your floor it is important to stagger the ends of the boards (header joints) by at least 300mm.
Preparation Checklist
Are all wet trades complete and thoroughly dried out?
As a rough guide, the drying time for a sand and cement based screed is 1 day per mm for the first 50mm and 2.5 days per mm thereafter.
Is the subfloor level to within 3mm over a 2m radius?
Minor undulations can be disguised using the Woodpecker XL Underlay which will help to absorb slight irregularities. However, if it is necessary to level the subfloor before fitting, apply Level-X Primer followed by Woodpecker Level-X Self-Levelling Compound.
Are the subfloor moisture readings within tolerance?
A cement based screed must have an RH (Relative Humidity) reading of 70% or less while wooden subfloors must read between 7% and 11% WME (Wood Moisture Equivalent).
If there is any doubt as to the moisture levels in the subfloor always use an underlay with integral DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) and install barrier side down to form a protective layer.
Is the atmospheric RH reading between 40% and 60%?
If underfloor heating is present, has it been properly tested and turned off 48 hours before fitting?
Has the flooring been acclimatised for the correct period of time?
Loc System
Although not always viable, fitting is easiest when you ‘loc’ down the boards in complete rows rather than individually. When connecting the header joints, insert the board into the lip at an angle of 30° then simultaneously move the board closer and lower into position. The flooring should ‘loc’ into place. Never use force; instead remove the board and check for dirt or excess lacquer then try again.
Clic System
When installing, align the long edge of the board first and simply ‘clic’ into position. Using a tapping block, gently knock the header joint up towards the previous board until they snap together. Remember, these instructions are advisory and you may find that, for you, installation is still easier if the header joints are connected prior to the long edges and the whole run inserted together.
Tongue and Groove
When gluing a tongue and groove board, run a generous bead of adhesive along the lower groove of both the long-side and header joint. This will provide a sufficient bond between the boards and eliminate squeaking. To fix into place, slide towards the long edge with the header joint connected and tighten using a tapping block or pulling iron as necessary.

What is the checklist for secret nailing a floor?
Nailing Down Your Floor
A traditional tongue and groove wooden floor can be secret nailed over an existing timber subfloor or (subject to thickness) fixed directly above joists to provide a structural floor.
Current building regulations stipulate that a structural floor must exceed 18mm in thickness. Where possible it is recommended that a structural timber based sheet material is installed over the joists ahead of the flooring being fitted to avoid any surface irregularities.
Whichever method you use, the subfloor must be of an appropriate width and thickness to retain a 50mm cleat when fired into it at 45°. Joists must be kiln dried to avoid cupping or expansion and must be spaced in accordance with current building regulations (this is predetermined over joists, but we recommend approximately 300mm intervals otherwise).
When secret nailing always use the Woodpecker Moistop Barrier Paper over the subfloor and overlap the joins by a minimum of 200mm. The bitumen backing self-seals around the punctures formed by nails to maintain a watertight barrier. It may be necessary to secure the joins with a moisture resistant tape.
Flooring should be fitted at 45° or 90° to the subfloor and nailed over every joist – through the sheet material if applicable. It is possible to have header joints which are not over a joist providing the boards either side are fully spanning the joists. Cleats should be no more than 400mm apart.
N.B: Never use adhesive to glue the joints in combination with this method.
Preparation Checklist
Are all wet trades complete and thoroughly dried out?
Is the subfloor structurally safe and free from damp rot, fungal or insect infestation?
Is the subfloor clean, free of chips or shavings, dry and level to within 3mm over a 2m area?
Will the subfloor retain a 50mm cleat when fired into it at 45°?
If necessary, have all hot pipes been insulated to prevent hot spots?
If underfloor heating is present, has it been properly tested and turned off 48 hours before fitting?
Does the subfloor measure between 7% and 11% WME (Wood Moisture Equivalent)?
Wooden subfloors must have moisture readings of between 7% and 11% WME (Wood Moisture Equivalent) and the new flooring should be left to acclimatise until it has reached a similar reading so as to prevent undue expansion or contraction.
Is the atmospheric RH reading between 40% and 60%?
Has the flooring been acclimatised for the correct period of time?

Any floor fitting tips and tricks?
The first row
After determining the best layout of the flooring and the starting wall, measure the width of the room and divide it by the width of the flooring panels to determine the number of rows and the width of the last row.

If the last row is determined to be less than 60mm wide, it should be adjusted by cutting the first row lengthwise.
Check all panels for possible damages/defects.
Starting from the left hand corner of the room lay the first row of flooring with the tongue (T&G) or top lip (Loc/Clic) of the board facing the wall.
Place spacers between the edge of the flooring panels and the wall to provide an appropriate expansion gap.
Mark then cut the last panel in the first row to the required length. Use the remainder of the board to start the second row of flooring.
Always make sure the off-cut is at least 200mm in length. If not, cut another piece greater than 200mm in length.
Start all subsequent rows with the off cut piece from the previous row.
N.B: Ensure all the short ends are staggered at least 300mm. It is vital to maintain a minimum of 300mm between the ends of boards in the adjacent rows (staggered).
Expansion Gaps
Since wood flooring is a natural material, it is subject to shrinkage and expansion due to changes in climate conditions. Therefore, expansion gaps must be left when a floor meets obstructions such as walls, doorframes, structural supports, stairs, fireplaces or pipes. Spacers should be placed at regular intervals when fitting and removed before skirting boards or trims are installed to conceal the gaps.
For wood flooring it is necessary to leave at least 2mm for every 1m span across the board with a minimum of 10–15mm regardless. For particularly large areas exceeding 8 metres in width (or 5 metres in width for a solid wood floor) it is recommended that additional expansion provision should be allowed by the inclusion of washer or penny joints at appropriate intervals across the floor. For Laminate and Estilo flooring, a minimum of 8mm expansion is required.
N.B: Skirting boards should always be fixed to the wall and must not in any way obstruct the movement of the floor.
Measure the position of the pipes and mark it on the panel, consider also the expansion. Take measurements from the spacers into account. Drill a hole 16mm (5/8”) bigger than the pipe diameter expansion provision. Saw at a 45 degree angle to the holes. Apply glue to the sawn out piece and fit in with the pull bar. Again, do not forget the spacers.
Door Jamb
If you have a wooden door jamb, we recommend undercutting the door jamb according to the thickness of the flooring plus the possible underlay. Install the flooring underneath the doorjamb but leave the necessary expansion gaps!

How do I pair a floor with underfloor heating?
Choosing A Floor
In general we would always recommend that where underfloor heating is being used, then a Real Wood Engineered floor should be installed in preference to a Solid Wood floor due to the increased stability that a multi-layered construction provides. In particular, the Raglan Range is particularly good for use with underfloor heating as the depth of the board allows for effective thermal transfer.
Not all timbers react well with underfloor heating so it is important to choose one of the floors that is recommended for use with underfloor heating. Each floor in our range carries a recommendation in the listing next to the product as to its suitability.
Check Your Subfloor
You must NEVER install underfloor heating over a concrete subfloor that has a moisture content of more than 75% Relative Humidity (RH). Ideally we would recommend it to be below 70% RH to give a margin for error.
In the case of timber subfloors, it is important that the moisture content does not exceed 11% Wood Moisture Equivalent (WME). Make sure your installer has checked these readings before proceeding.
If the measurements exceed the above guidelines, then one of the Woodpecker damp proof preparation products must be used prior to installation of the heating system.
Pick Your System
There are two main types of system available with many variations from different manufacturers, but essentially they will either be water heated or electrically heated systems.
In general, water heated systems are normally found in new build or renovation projects, while electrically heated systems are generally found in situations where installation is required to be relatively quick and easy.
Whichever system you choose, the maximum water or electrical element temperature should not be greater than 50°C and the temperature below the floor must never exceed 27°C.
Test Your Heating
Prior to fitting your floor, the underfloor heating should, in the case of a water heated system, be fully pressurised, tested for leaks and left to run usually for a fortnight, but certainly until all the moisture in the screed or timber subfloor has been driven off.
Plaster should be dry and all the wet trades finished in the rooms to which the flooring is to be fitted. The atmospheric Relative Humidity within the room should read between 40% and 60%.
Your Floor
Your underfloor system should be turned off for at least 48 hours prior to fitting the floor. Only electrical heating or central heating should be used during installation.
Engineered tongue and groove floors (subject to suitability of species) should always be fully adhered to the subfloor using the Woodpecker MS Parquet (Flexible) Adhesive.
An Engineered floor with a glueless locking joint can, in most cases, be floated over underfloor heating subject to suitability of species. Remember to pick an underlay that is suitable for use with underfloor heating.
If only part of the subfloor has underfloor heating, the new flooring must not be laid continuously but separated by dilation joints because flooring installed over underfloor heating is likely to expand and contract more than flooring that is not.
After fitting, the floor should be left for 2–3 days to fully acclimatise to its new surroundings and if relevant for any adhesive to fully cure before the heating is switched on.
When ready, the heating should be raised gently by 1°C per day from the prevailing ambient temperature. It must NOT be turned on full straight away.
Raising and lowering the temperature of your heating too quickly can result in dimensional changes to the timber which will cause the floor to shrink and crack.
As a general rule, this method of gradually increasing and decreasing temperatures should be followed in the day-to-day running of your system. Ideally, underfloor heating should be left running from the thermostat all the time and only raised or lowered by 1°C per day to accommodate the different seasons.
More Info
These guidelines are not exhaustive and are provided to give a general understanding of how the systems work. They do not replace the need to follow the recommended fitting procedures of each individual manufacturer.

What routine care does a wood floor need?
Routine Care
We appreciate that hardwood flooring is a major investment for most people and knowing how to clean and maintain your floor is paramount in retaining its natural beauty and ensuring longevity.
Light Cleaning
Wooden floors can either be swept regularly using a soft bristled broom or vacuumed frequently to remove any dirt and girt. When vacuuming your floor, it is advisable to use a soft brush attachment to minimise scratching.
Wooden floors hold many advantages for pet owners but inevitably animals can damage your floor. Keep claws trim to prevent scratches and mop any ‘accidents’ immediately to avoid staining. Opting for a light coloured floor will minimise the appearance of scratches, while an oiled finish will allow you to easily carry out spot repairs if necessary.
Since water and wood are natural enemies, any spillages should be removed promptly! While small drops of water may not harm your floor, excessive amounts of water left sitting on the boards are likely to cause lasting damage.
As a rule of thumb, stilettos should be left at the front door and heavy shoes avoided! High heels and stilettos in particular, exert a phenomenal pressure that even the toughest of timber species struggle to withstand.
Exposure to direct sunlight will cause your floor to mellow in colour over time. Red woods like Merbau, Jatoba, Cherry etc., are particularly susceptible to colour change. Be sure to frequently move rugs and mats placed in these areas to ensure the floor colour matures evenly.
Prevention rather than cure is the key to a beautiful floor! Consider using rugs or carpet runners in high traffic areas such as hallways and never drag furniture or other objects across a wood floor. Woodpecker offers a variety of felt protectors and castor cups that will allow furniture to be moved with ease and without marking your floor.
Floor Mats
Install good quality floor mats at each entrance to trap dirt and prevent damage. Grit underfoot will act like sandpaper against your floor. Woodpecker Coir Matting is an ideal entrance barrier for wet and dirty feet.
Always use a well wrung mop when wiping your hardwood floor. Excess liquid has the potential to seep down the joins in a floor and cause permanent damage.
Specially formulated for Woodpecker floors are our comprehensive Cleaning Kits, containing an antistatic mop, cleaning fluid and trigger head spray bottle for easy application. The cleaning kits are offered for both lacquered and oiled finishes, with product refills available as necessary.
In addition to the above kits, Woodpecker One Coat Soap is a concentrated cleaning solution exclusively for oiled floors. Once diluted, it is applied in a similar fashion to the above. Repeated use of Woodpecker products on oiled floors will help develop an invisible film, offering extra protection and increased resistance to dirt.

What long term care does a wood floor need?
Long-term Maintenance
Despite using some of the most advanced finishing products and techniques on the market, a hardwood floor will not withstand the brunt of daily life forever. Eventually, even the most well-tended of surfaces will require a little extra maintenance.
It is important to maintain an existing floor finish in good time. If you allow the protective coat to wear away, it becomes susceptible to dirt and water which can penetrate the surface of the wood making the floor difficult to clean and quickly subdued. Routine maintenance is particularly important for floors with distinctive finishes, as sanding will take out all traces of an existing stain or texture.
Due to individual circumstance, it is impossible to recommend how often you should renew your floor finish but as a preventative measure, you may wish to recoat the floor every 2–3 years. To perform a basic evaluation of your floor finish, select a high traffic area and pour a few drops of water onto the floor. A well finished floor will force beads of water to form on the surface suggesting that no maintenance is required. If the water slowly soaks into the timber leaving behind a light saturation mark, the finish is only partially effective and a new coat of lacquer or oil should be applied. Alternatively, if the water is immediately absorbed leaving behind a dark stain, it indicates that the finish has completely worn and the floor may need to be sanded and recoated.
Methods of repair will differ depending on whether your chosen floor was pre-treated with an oil or polyurethane lacquer. If you are unsure, as a general rule of thumb a lacquered floor is typically smooth and shiny while an oiled floor has a matt finish and subtle texture. However, before any surface treatment is carried out, we always recommend that an adhesion test is performed in an inconspicuous area to determine compatibility.
Unfortunately, a laminate floor cannot be repaired in the same way that a hardwood floor can, however, small chips and scratches can be concealed using the Colourfill Repair Kit. The kit is supplied together with a solvent to clean the affected areas before filling and to remove excess filler afterwards.
Oiled Floors
Unlike a lacquered floor, an oiled surface allows for isolated areas of damage, such as scratches and stains, to be easily re-touched without having to re-oil the entire floor. Although easier to repair, they usually require earlier periodic maintenance.
One Coat Soap
The One Coat Soap is a concentrated cleaning solution specially designed for oiled floors. When diluted with 150mls of water, it can be used in the same fashion as the Woodpecker Maintenance Kits. However, on occasion it can also be used as neat solution to perform a deep clean. If this fails to revive the floors natural lustre then you will need to consider re-oiling your floor.
One Coat Cleaner
Before re-oiling all or part of your floor, it is essential that the wood is free from dust and contamination to ensure adhesion. Applying a small amount of the One Coat Cleaner to a dry cloth is sufficient enough to intensively clean the affected area. It also allows for any dust to be collected electro-statically. Drying times will vary from 15–60 minutes depending on saturation. If the floor remains soiled, you will have to consider sanding the surface to remove the engrained dirt.
One Coat Oil
Using a cotton cloth, brush or squeegee, the oil is applied sparely and evenly to the floor and worked into the wood along the grain. The oil only needs 60 seconds to react with the floor and the excess must be rubbed off within 15–20 minutes of application, until practically dry. With such a quick response time required, it is important not to expand treated areas beyond your resources. One Coat Oil is also suitable for commercial properties without the need for multiple coats. Its ability to re-disperse on the surface of the wood also eliminates tide marks and any signs of overlapping. Approximately 24–36 hours after application, the floor is suitable for foot traffic.
Lacquered Floors
Small indentations and isolated scratches can be concealed and recoated using the Woodpecker Touch-Up Lacquer. Before application, ensure that the area in question is dry and free from dirt, dust or grease. Using the brush applicator supplied within the lid, paint the lacquer onto the affected area and leave to cure.
To disguise deeper scratches or gouges, you many need to use professional wood floor filler. Available in a wide variety of colours from most hardware or flooring retailers, these pastes are applied to the damaged area, left to cure, sanded flush and later sealed using the Touch-Up Lacquer to maintain a protective shell.
When it comes to restoring your entire floor, the Ultimo Lacquer is available in two grades to cater for both domestic and commercial environments. A factory lacquered floor will not need to be sanded back prior to application, however, previously re-lacquered surfaces must be lightly sanded to ensure sufficient adhesion.
Unlike an oiled floor, the lacquer doesn’t penetrate the surface of the wood so the entire floor must be re-lacquered to prevent the formation of ridges. Best results are achieved using a roller. A single coat is sufficient enough to protect against moisture although several coats may be applied if the floor is subject to high levels of foot traffic. When coating unfinished timber, three coats of lacquer are required. Between each coat of lacquer, the floor must be sanded, vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth before re-coating. The lacquer will take about 1–2 hours to dry between applications. After 24 hours the floor is suitable for light foot traffic, although the surface will continue to cure for 7 days before rugs can be replaced.